Emerald cuts are rectangular with flat facets at the side and a large table facing upwards. These facets create wide areas of reflection but less scintillation than round brilliant or other diamonds with triangular facets
Therefore, they look less busy than bright diamonds, but can have more detail on display.
The first advice for people who want an emerald cut diamond ring is to think beyond the carat weight. The millimetre dimensions, clarity grading, colour, proportion, and other elements affect the appearance of the ring.
Proportions Give the Stone Its Character
Diamonds are classed as emerald cut when they have a step facet structure and a rectangular shape.
Rectangles can be high and narrow or broad and shallow. Length-to-width ratios can suggest the shape and proportions. A diamond with a ratio of approximately 1.30 or wider will have a more squared appearance. Those closer to 1.45 or 1.50 or more will give a rectangular or elongated shape. Ratios are personal preference, not requirements.
Diamond cutters and ring designers choose the appropriate proportion based on the finger and the wedding band or setting. Longer diamonds can highlight a lengthens shape. Broader settings will display a larger surface.
Length-to-width ratios are an initial guideline but compare diamonds using millimetres and, ideally, video or images showing the diamond from above. Diamonds of the same carat weight can look completely different in size when set.
Clarity Needs Extra Attention With Step Facets
The larger step facets and wide table on emerald cut diamonds means that inclusions can often be seen more clearly than in diamonds with triangular facets.
This does not require the highest clarity grade but try to pick a stone that looks clean to the eye when viewing the diamond.
An internal flaw near the outer edge of a step facet can be less apparent than something under the table. A black spot or channel could be more obvious with an emerald cut diamond than with a round brilliant.
Independent certification provides the clarity grade. Review the certification alongside the magnified video and photos. Pay more attention to the location of the inclusions rather than the letter grade. For an emerald cut diamond ring, a higher clarity grade will only be worth the cost if there is a noticeable difference.
Colour Is Often More Obvious in an Elongated Shape
The way that emerald cut diamonds reflect light and have less scintillation means that the body colour can sometimes be more noticeable.
Metal choice will affect the perceived colour of the stone.
Platinum or white gold settings create a neutral background to set off any colour in the diamond. Yellow or rose gold do the opposite, so the perceived body colour is less likely to stand out from the reflection of the band.
This is useful for making adjustments and compromises. Someone who chooses a yellow gold band may decide that they prefer a slightly lower colour grade on the basis that it will look less noticeable on the whole ring.
Review an emerald cut diamond ring in the same setting metal as intended rather than focussing on the colour grade in isolation.
The Setting Decides Exposure and Protection
Emerald cut diamond shapes have corners. These can create the distinctive style but the ring setting protects against knocks and impacts.
The traditional approach for an emerald cut diamond ring is four prongs holding the stone with as much of the diamond exposed to display. The prongs should be placed so that the stone is supported properly but the profile is still clear and distinct.
A bezel setting will hold more of the diamond edges securely. It changes the silhouette of the diamond with a wider band of metal around the stone.
Halo, hidden halo and other variations add smaller stones around the main diamond. A clear halo will widen the overall footprint. Hidden halos and side stones add some detail on the bottom border.
Consider the view of the emerald cut diamond. Settlers with a very tall central stone may appear imposing but could be more prone to knocks with everyday wear.
Carat Weight Is Different Than Face Up Size
Carats measure weight, not dimension. Emerald cut diamonds with the same carat weight could have different face-up length-to-width ratios and total dimensions.
The depth can also have an impact as this determines what contributes to the overall weight. A deeper cut could have more weight below the table facet than a shallower cut diamond. This makes it important to review millimetres as well as carats when selecting an emerald cut diamond ring.
If considering two diamonds on the same budget, compare ratios. If both have similar face-up width and length but one has a higher ratio that still looks good in terms of shape and display, it looks bigger on the hand.
However, do not sacrifice proportion for a larger diameter diamond as it could look disproportionately tall as the length is increased.
Independent Certification Assists Comparison Shopping
Independent diamond grading reports provide a standardised comparison between similar diamond properties, including carat, colour, clarity, face-up length and width, depth, and other dimensions.
However, the report should be cross referenced with images, dimensions, and the structure of the facets for a precise choice.
Those who want lab grown or mined diamonds should review carat, colour, clarity, length and width measurements, and the other specifications contained on the grading report. Lab diamonds are identical to mined diamonds in structure but should be treated as different types because of differences in supply chain and retail pricing requirements. Request a copy of the grading report as well as ring photographs, measurement documentation, and other details.
Wedding Bands and Engagement Rings Should Fit Together
When buying an emerald cut diamond ring, consider the shape and size in relation to the wedding band.
Some people select an engagement band first before making any adjustments to an engagement ring.
However, this can create two items that do not combine well.
A low basket or wider mounting can prevent the option of a straight wedding band that sits flush. Not everyone wants the rings to appear connected but flush bands are available with appropriate settings.
When ordering an emerald cut diamond ring, it is worth requesting the profile view and checking the relationship between the engagement ring setting and the band. Contoured rings are one solution but they should only be purchased when the fit and feel is correct.
Band width is also worth reviewing. A wider shank matches a larger emerald cut diamond. Narrow shanks combine with larger diamonds to create an exaggerated appearance of scale. Those who prefer a narrower band should consider the overall width, including the ring band on either side of the emerald cut stone.
Ordering an Emerald Cut Diamond Ring Online Provides Some Extra Considerations
The process of ordering a ring online requires the buyer to check additional information.
Order the ring using the jeweller’s measuring system, particularly if the business is international because ring size measurements vary from one country to another.
